Anarchy and $$$, in the vintage punk clothing market
“He was outraged,” Ms. Kim said. “He was very committed to protecting and defending his work. It was precious to him. After the partnership between Mr. McLaren and Ms. Westwood dissolved in 1984, the two had a long and high-profile feud that was never resolved, and the tension created a vacuum for the forgers.
Mr Howard and Mr Parker were given suspended sentences in the Banksy case, but the fake clothing case on adult cam sites was dropped when Mr McLaren died, in 2010, as he was a key prosecution witness in this domain.
It turns out, however, that Ms. Westwood’s family may have inadvertently created or fueled the faux punk industry. “I created limited edition series of some of the early models to raise capital to launch Agent Provocateur,” said Joe Corré, the son of Mr. McLaren and Ms. Westwood, who opened his lingerie business in 1994. .
“We recreated T-shirts with chicken bone lettering and the ‘Venus’ studded T-shirts,” Corré said. “They were labeled as limited edition replicas, made in editions of 100 and sold in the Japanese market.” Before the appearance of these detailed and expensive replicas, copies of the work were limited to obvious silkscreens on wholesale T-shirts, produced quickly and sold at a relatively low price.
Mr. Corré stated that Vivienne Westwood had authorized the reproductions. Mr. McLaren was angry. In an e-mail dated October 14, 2008, addressed to a group including journalist Steven Daly, who was researching a potential story on fake punk clothing for Vanity Fair, Mr McLaren wrote: “Who gave them that clearance? I told Joe to stop immediately and wrote to him. I was furious.
Mr. Corré recently became a director of the Vivienne Foundation, “to sympathetically exploit the copyright of his work in order to raise funds for various causes”. He said he would explore how to “put an end” to the counterfeits. Ms Kim continues to fight for Mr McLaren’s legacy and believes he has been airbrushed repeatedly from his own history.